輿服上
天子車輅 皇后妃嬪車輦 皇太子車制 王公以下車制及鞍勒飾
古者軍輿之制，各有名物表識，以祀以封，以田以戎，所以別上下、明等威也。歷代相承，互有損益，或因時創始，或襲舊致文，奇巧日滋，浮靡益蕩。加以後世便習騎乘，車用蓋寡，惟於郊廟祀享法駕導引，爲一代令儀而不敢廢也。其於先王經世立法之意，寥乎闊哉！金初得遼之儀物，既而克宋，於是乎有車輅之制。熙宗幸燕，始用法駕。迨至世宗，製作乃定，班班乎古矣！考禮文，證國史，以見一代之制度雲。
大定十一年，將有事於南郊，命太常寺檢宋南郊禮，鹵簿當用玉輅、金輅、象輅、革輅、木輅、耕根車、明遠車、指南車、記裏鼓車、崇德車、皮軒車、進賢車、黃鉞車、白鷺車、鸞旗車、豹尾車、軺車、羊車各一，革車五，屬車十二。除見有車輅外，闕象、木、革輅、耕根、明遠、皮軒、進賢、白鷺、羊車，大輦各一，革車三，屬車四。
按《五禮新儀》，玉輅以青，金輅以緋，象輅以銀褐，革輅以黃，木輅以皁，蓋其物有合隨輅之色者，有當用別色者，如玉輅用青絲繡雲龍絡帶，青羅繡寶相花帶，青畫輪轅，青氂牛尾，此隨輅之色者也。若象、木、革輅則當用緋、用銀褐、用黃及皁。若至尊乘御步武所及，非若餘物但爲美觀，其踏牀、倚背、踏道之褥皆用紅錦，座褥、及行馬褥、透壁軟簾三，用銀褐、黃、青羅錦三色。又大輦，宋陶谷創意爲之，至祥符中以其太重，減七百餘斤，可見當時亦無定製，各以意從長斟酌造之。其制，金玉輅闕，可見者象輅、革輅、木輅，耕根、皮軒、進賢、明遠、白鷺、羊車、革車、大輦，凡十有一：
象輅，黃質，金塗銅裝，以象飾諸末。輪衣以銀褐。建大赤。餘同玉輅。
革輅，黃質，鞔之以革，金塗銅裝，輪衣以黃，建大白。餘同玉輅。
木輅，黑質，漆之，輪衣以皁，建大麾。餘同玉輅。
耕根車，青質，蓋三重，制如玉輅而無玉飾。
皮軒車，赤質，上有漆柱，貫五輪相重，畫虎紋，一轅。
進賢車，赤質，如革車，緋輪衣、絡帶、門簾並繡鳳。上設朱漆牀、香案，紫綾衣。一轅。
明遠車，制如屋，銳頂，重檐，勾欄。頂上有金龍，四角垂鐸。上層四面垂簾，下層周以花板。三轅。
白鷺車，赤質，周施花板，上有漆柱，柱杪刻爲鷺鷥，銜鵝毛筒，紅綬帶。柱貫五輪相重。輪衣、皁頂、緋裙、緋絡帶，並繡飛鷺。一轅。
羊車，赤質，兩壁油畫龜紋，金鳳翅，幰衣、結帶並繡瑞羊。二轅。
大輦，赤質，正方，油畫，金塗銀葉龍鳳裝。其上四面施行龍、雲朵、火珠，方鑑、銀絲囊網，珠翠結雲龍，鈿窠霞子。四角龍頭銜香囊。頂輪施耀葉，中有銀蓮花，坐龍。紅綾裏，碧牙壓帖。內設圓鑑、香囊，銀飾勾欄臺坐，紫絲條網帉錔。中施黃褥，上置御座、曲幾，香爐、錦結綬。幾衣、輪衣、絡帶並緋繡雲龍寶相花，金線壓。長竿四，飾以金塗銀龍頭。畫梯、託叉、行馬。
七寶輦，制如大輦，飾以玉裙網，七寶，滴子用真珠。宋欽宗爲上皇制，海陵自汴取而用之。
皇后之車六。
一曰重翟車，青質，金飾金塗銅鈒花葉段裝釘，翟葉二十四，明金立鳳一，紫羅銷金生色寶相帷一，青羅、青油幰衣各一，朱絲絡網、紫羅明金生色雲龍絡帶各二，兩廂明金五彩間裝翟羽二，金塗鍮石長轅鳳頭三，橫轅立鸞八，香爐香寶子一副，宜男錦帶結，硃紅漆杌子、踏牀各一，扶板扶魚一副，紅羅明金衣褥，紅羅襯褥一，青羅行道褥四，青羅明金生色雲鳳夾幔一，紅羅明金緣紅竹簾二，金塗銅葉段行馬二，硃紅漆金塗銀葉裝釘胡梯一，青羅胡梯尋儀褥二，踏道褥十，青絹裹大麻索二，油蒙帕一。二曰厭翟車，赤質，倒仙錦帷一，紫羅、紫油幰衣各一，朱絲絡網，宜男錦絡帶各二，餘同重翟，惟行道褥、夾幔、尋儀褥羅及裹索等用紅。三曰翟車，黃質，金飾鍮石葉段裝釘，宜男錦帷，黃羅油幰衣，鍮石長轅鳳頭三，而無橫轅立鸞，餘同厭翟，而羅色用黃。四曰安車，赤質，倒仙錦帷，紫、油幰衣，朱絲絡網，天下樂錦絡帶，鍮石長轅鳳頭三，無橫轅立鸞及香爐香寶子，餘同翟車，而色皆用紅。五曰四望車，朱質，宜男錦帷，青、油幰衣，轅端螭頭二，餘並同安車。六曰金根車，朱質，紫羅、紫油幰衣，朱絲絡網、倒仙錦絡帶各二，踏牀衣褥用紅綾，尋儀褥、踏道褥並用綾，餘並同安車。
造六車成後，復改造圓輅、重檐，方輅、五華、亭頭、平頭六等之制，又增制九龍車一，高二丈、廣一丈一尺、長二丈六尺。五鳳車四，各高一丈八尺，長廣如之。圓輅車一、方輅車一、重檐車一，各高一丈七尺，長一丈八尺，廣八尺。皆駕馬四，駕士各五十人，並平巾幘、生色青緋黃三色寶相花衫、銀褐抹帶、大口袴。平頭輦一、五華輦一、亭頭輦一，各高一丈九尺，廣丈五寸，長三丈。舁士各九十六人作兩番代，並生色緋寶相花衫，餘如前制。管押人員三十五人，長腳幞頭、紫羅窄衫、金銅帶束。駕馬繁纓、涼屜、鈴拂、包尾皆從車色，金銅面，插翟尾，朱轡，朱總。龍車合用紅羅傘一，傘子二人用本服錦帽幞帶。又檢定扇、障等制。偏扇如仙人羽扇。行障六扇，各長八尺、高六尺，用紅羅表、朱裏，畫雲鳳，龍首竿銜鞶結，每障用宮人四。坐障三扇，各長七尺、高五尺，畫雲鳳，紅羅表、朱裏，餘同行障。錦六柱八扇，各闊二尺、高三尺，冒以錦，內給使八人執。宮人車制如屬車，駕士八人，平巾幘、緋衫、大口袴、鞋襪、供奉宮人三十人，雲腳紗帽、紫衫束帶，綠靴。明昌元年三月，定妃嬪車輦同鍍金鳳頭、黃結。御妻、世婦用間金鳳頭、梅紅結子。
皇太子車制。
大定六年十二月，奏皇太子金輅典故制度，及上用金輅儀式，奉敕詳定。輈、旗、旂首及應用龍者更以麟爲飾，省去障塵等物。上用金輅名件色數，依上公以九爲節，減四分之一。上用輅，軾前有金龍改爲伏鹿，軾上坐龍改爲鳳，旂十二旒減爲九，駕赤騮六減爲四，及簾褥用黃羅處改用梅紅，餘並具體成造。其制，赤質，金飾諸末，重較。箱畫虞文鳥獸，黃屋。軾作赤伏鹿，龍輈。金鳳一，在軾前。設障塵。朱蓋黃裏。輪畫朱牙。左建九旒，右載闟戟。旂首銜金龍頭，結綏及鈴緌。八鸞在衡，二鈴在軾。駕赤騮四，金勣釳方，插翟尾，鏤錫鞶，纓九就。皇帝輅自頂至地高一丈七尺，今閷四分之一爲一丈三尺二寸，修廣之閷亦如之。
王公以下車制。
一品，轅用銀螭頭，涼棚杆子、月板並許以銀裝飾。三品以上，螭頭不得施銀，涼棚杆子、月板亦聽用銀爲飾。五品以上，轅獅頭。六品以下，轅雲頭。庶人坐車平頭，止用一色黑油。親王鞍，塗金銀裹，仍鈒以開花。障泥用紫羅，飾以錦。轡以塗金銀裝，束用絲結。皇家小功以上、太皇太后皇太后大功以上、皇后期親以上、並一品官、及官職俱至三品以上者，障泥許用金花。若經賜或御球場內，不在禁限。舊制，親王、宰執任外者，與大興尹，皆服小帽、束帶、銀鞍、絲鞭。大定中，世宗以京尹亦外官三品，而與親王無別，遂命不得御銀鞍、絲鞭，惟同外三品例，幞頭、帶、展皁視事。承安二年，制護衛銅裝鞍轡不得借人。庶人馬鞍許用黑漆，以骨、角、鐵爲飾，不得用玉較具及金、銀、犀、象飾鞍轡。
輿服中
天子袞冕
昔者聖人制爲玄黃黼黻之服，以象天地之德，以章貴賤之儀，夏、商損益，至周大備，不可以有加矣。自秦滅棄禮法，先王之制靡敝不存，漢初猶服袀玄以從大祀，歷代雖漸復古，終亦不純而已。金制皇帝服通天、絳紗、兗冕、逼，即前代之遺制也。其臣有貂蟬法服，即所謂朝服者。章宗時，禮官請參酌漢、唐，更制祭服，青衣朱裳，去貂蟬豎筆，以別於朝服。惟公朝則又有紫、緋、綠三等之服，與夫窄紫、展皁等事，悉著於篇雲。
天眷三年，有司以車駕將幸燕京，合用通天冠、絳紗袍，據見闕名件，依式成造。禮服，袍、裳、方心曲領、中單、蔽膝、革帶、大帶、玉具劍、綬、佩、褵、襪。乘輿服，大綬六採，黑、黃、赤、白、縹、綠、小綬三色，同大綬，間施三玉環，大綬五百首，小綬半之。白玉雙佩、革帶、玉鉤。
冕制。天板長一尺六寸，廣八寸，前高八寸五分，後高九寸五分，身圍一尺八寸三分，並納言，並用青羅爲表，紅羅爲裏，週迴用金棱。天板下有四柱，四面珍珠網結子，花素墜子，前後珠旒共二十四，旒各長一尺二寸。青碧線織造天河帶一，長一丈二尺，闊二寸，兩頭各有真珠金碧旒三節，玉滴子節花。紅線組帶二，上有真珠金翠旒，玉滴子節花，下有金鐸子二。梅紅線款幔帶一。黈纊二，真珠垂系，上用金萼子二。簪窠，款幔、組帶鈿窠，各二，內組帶鈿窠四並玉鏤塵碾造。玉簪一，頂方二寸，導長一尺二寸，簪頂刻鏤塵雲龍。
袞，用青羅夾制，五彩間金繪畫，正面日一、月一、升龍四、山十二，上下襟華蟲、火各六對，虎、蜼各六對。背面星一，升龍四、山十二，華蟲、火各二十對，虎、蜼各六對。中單一，白羅單制，羅領、褾、襈。裳一，帶、褾襈，紅羅八幅夾制，繡藻三十二，粉十六、米十六、黼三十二、黻三十二。蔽膝一，帶、褾、襈，並紅羅夾制，繡升龍二。綬一副：大綬以赤黃黑白綠縹六彩織，紅羅托里，小綬三色，同大綬，銷金黃羅綬頭，上間施三玉環，皆刻雲龍，大綬五百首，小綬半之。緋白大帶一，銷金黃羅帶頭，鈿窠二十四。紅羅勒帛一，青羅抹帶一。玉佩二，白玉上中下璜各一，半月各二，皆刻雲龍，玉滴子各二，皆以紅真珠穿制。金篦鉤、獸面、水葉、環、釘。涼帶一，紅羅裹，縷金，上有玉鵝七，釒宅尾束各一，金攀龍口，以玳瑁板襯釘腳。褵，重底、紅羅面，白綾托里，如意頭，銷金黃羅緣口，玉鼻仁飾以珠。襪用緋羅加綿。凡大祭祀、加尊號、受冊寶，則服袞冕。行幸、齋戒出宮或御正殿，則通天冠、絳紗袍。
鎮圭，大圭。皇統九年十月二十四日，禮部下太常，畫鎮圭式樣，大禮使據《三禮圖》以進，用之。大定十一年，太常寺按《禮》“大圭長三尺，抒上終葵首，天子服之”。自西魏、隋、唐以來，大圭長尺二寸，與鎮圭同。蓋鎮圭以鎮天下，以四鎮山爲飾，今其圭已依古制，惟無大圭。今御府有故宋白玉圭，圓，無上閷及終葵首。自西魏以來，所制玉笏皆長尺有二寸，方而不折，雖非先王之法，蓋後世玉難得，隨宜故也。擬合以御府所藏，行禮就用。
視朝之服
初，太宗即位，始服赭黃，自後視百官朝御袍帶。章宗即位，以世宗之喪，有司請御純吉，不從，乃服淡黃袍、烏犀帶。常朝則服小帽、紅襴、偏帶或束帶。
皇后冠服
花株冠，用盛子一，青羅表、青絹襯金紅羅托里，用九龍、四鳳，前面大龍銜穗球一朵，前後有花株各十有二，及鸂鶒、孔雀、雲鶴、王母仙人隊、浮動插瓣等，後有納言，上有金蟬鑻金兩博鬢，以上並用鋪翠滴粉縷金裝珍珠結制，下有金圈口，上用七鈿窠，後有金鈿窠二，穿紅羅鋪金款幔帶一。禕衣，深青羅織成翬翟之形，素質，十二等，領、褾、襈並紅羅織成雲龍，中單以素青紗制，領織成黼形霰十二，褾、袖襈、織成雲龍，並織紅縠造。裳，八副，深青羅織成翟文六等，褾、襈織成紅羅雲龍，明金帶腰。蔽膝，深青羅織成翟文三等，領緣，緅色羅織成雲龍，明金帶大綬一，長五尺，闊一尺，黃赤白黑縹綠六彩織成，小綬三色同大綬，間七寶鈿窠，施三玉環。上碾雲龍，拈金線織成大小綬頭，紅羅花襯，大帶，青羅朱裏，紕其外，上以朱錦，下以綠錦，紐約用青組，拈金線織成帶頭。玉佩二朵，每朵上中下璜各一，半月墜子各二，並玉碾，縷金打鈒獸面、篦鉤佩子各一，水葉子真珠穿綴。青衣革帶，用縷金青羅裹造，上用金打鈒水地龍，鵝眼釒宅尾，龍口攀束子共八事，以玳瑁襯金釘腳。抹帶二，紅羅、青羅各一，並明金造，各長一丈五寸。褵以青羅制，白綾裏，如意頭，明金、黃羅準上用，玉鼻仁真珠裝，綴繫帶。襪，青羅表裏，綴繫帶。犀冠，減撥花樣，縷金裝造，上有玉簪一，下有玳瑁盤一。
皇太子冠服
冕用白珠九旒，紅絲組爲纓，青纊充耳，犀簪導。袞，青衣朱裳，五章在衣，山、龍、華蟲、火、宗彝，四章在裳，藻、粉米、黼、黻。白紗中單，青褾礻巽裾。革帶，塗金銀鉤。蔽膝，隨裳色，爲火、山二章。瑜玉雙佩，四採織成大綬，間施玉環三。白襪，朱褵，褵加金塗銀釦。謁廟則服之。遠遊冠，十八梁，金塗銀花，飾博山附蟬，紅絲組爲纓，犀簪導。朱明服，紅裳，白紗中單，方心曲領。絳紗蔽膝，白襪黑褵。餘同袞冕。冊寶則服之。桓圭，長九寸、廣三寸、厚半寸、用白玉，若屋之桓楹，爲二棱。太子入朝起居及與宴，則朝服，紫袍、玉帶、雙魚袋。其視事及見師少賓客，則服小帽、皁衫、玉束帶。
宗室及外戚並一品命婦
衣服聽用明金，期親雖別籍、女子出嫁並同。又五品以上官母、妻，許披霞帔。唯首飾、霞帔、領袖、腰帶，許用明金、籠金、間金之類。其衣服止用明銀、象金及金條壓繡。正班局分承應帶官人，雖未出職系班，其祖母及母、妻、子孫之婦、同籍兄弟之妻、及在室女、孫、姊妹並同。又禁私家用純黃帳幕陳設，若曾經宣賜鸞輿服御，日月雲肩、龍文黃服、五個鞘眼之鞍皆須更改。
臣下朝服
凡導駕及行大禮，文武百官皆服之。正一品：貂蟬籠巾，七梁額花冠，貂鼠立筆，銀立筆，犀簪導，佩劍，緋羅大袖、緋羅裙、緋羅蔽膝各一，緋白羅大帶，天下樂暈錦玉環綬一，白羅方心曲領、白紗中單、銀褐勒帛各一，玉珠佩二，金塗銀革帶，烏皮履，白綾襪。正二品：七梁冠，銀立筆，犀簪導，不佩劍，緋羅大袖，雜花暈錦玉環綬，餘並同。正四品：五梁冠，銀立筆，犀簪，白獅錦銀環綬，珠佩，銀革帶，御史中丞則獬豸冠、青荷蓮綬，餘並同。正五品：四梁冠，簇四金雕錦銅環綬，銀珠佩，餘並同。正六品至七品：三梁冠，黃獅錦銅環綬，銅珠佩，銅束帶，餘並同。大定二十二年祫享，攝官、導駕二品冠七梁，三品四品冠六梁，服有金花，五品冠五梁，六品冠四梁，七品冠三梁，監察御史獬豸冠、青綬，八品九品冠二梁，餘制並同。
祭服
皇統七年，太常寺言：“太廟成後，奉安神主，祫享行禮，凡行事、執事、助祭、陪位官，準古典當服袞冕、九章畫降龍，隨品各有等差。《通典》雲虞、夏、殷並十二章，日、月、星辰、山、龍、華蟲作繪於衣，宗彝、藻、火、粉米、黼、黻絺繡於裳。周升三辰於旂，登龍于山，登火於宗彝，作九章之服，龍、山、華蟲、火、宗彝繪於衣，藻、粉米、黼、黻繡於裳。‘公之服自袞冕而下如王之服，候伯之服自鷩冕而下如公之服’。又後魏帝服袞冕，與祭者皆朝服。又《開元禮》一品服九章。又《五禮新儀》正一品服九旒冕、犀簪，青衣畫降龍。今汴京舊禮直官言，自宣和二年已後，一品祭服七旒冕、大袖無龍。唐雖服九章服，當時司禮少常伯孫茂道言：‘諸臣之章雖殊，然飾龍名袞，尊卑相亂，請三公服鷩冕八章爲宜。’臣等竊謂歷代衣服之制不同，若從後魏則止服朝服，或用宋服則爲七章，若遵唐九章，則有飾龍名袞尊卑相亂之議。”尚書省乃奏用後魏故事，止用燕京大冊禮時所服朝服以祭。大定三年八月，詔遵皇統制，攝官則朝服，散官則公服，以皇太子爲亞獻，服袞冕。十四年，用唐制，若祭遇雨雪則服常服，謂今之公服也。泰和元年八月，禮官言：“祭服所以接神，朝服所以事君，雖歷代損益不同，然未嘗不有分別。是以袞冕十二旒，玄衣纁裳備十二章，天子之祭服也。通天冠、絳紗袍、紅羅裳，天子之視朝服也。臣下之服則用青衣朱裳以祭，朱衣朱裳以朝。國朝惟天子備袞冕、通天冠二等之服，今羣臣但有朝服，而祭服尚闕，每有祀事但以朝服從事，實於典禮未當。請依漢、唐故事，祭服冕旒畫章，然君臣冕服雖章數各殊而俱飾龍名袞，而唐孫茂道已有尊卑相亂之論。然三公法服有龍，恐涉於僣，國初禮官亦嘗駁議。乞參酌古今，改置祭服，其冠則如朝冠，而但去其貂蟬、豎筆，其服用青衣、朱裳、白襪、朱履，非攝事者則用朝服，庶幾少有差別。”上曰：“朝、祭之服，固宜分也。”
公服
大定官制，文資五品以上官服紫。三師、三公、親王、宰相一品官服大獨科花羅，徑不過五寸，執政官服小獨科花羅，徑不過三寸。二品、三品服散搭花羅，謂無枝葉者，徑不過寸半。四品、五品服小雜花羅，謂花頭碎小者，徑不過一寸。六品、七品服緋芝麻羅。八品、九品服綠無紋羅。應武官皆服紫。凡散官、職事皆從一高，上得兼下，下不得僣上，窄紫亦同服色，各依官制品格。其諸局分承應人並服無紋素羅。十五年制曰：“袍不加襴，非古也。”遂命文資官公服皆加襴。帶制，皇太子玉帶，佩玉雙魚袋。親王玉帶，佩玉魚。一品玉帶，佩金魚。二品笏頭球文金帶，佩金魚。三品、四品荔枝或御仙花金帶，並佩金魚。五品，服紫者紅鞓烏犀帶，佩金魚，服緋者紅鞓烏犀帶，佩銀魚，服綠者並皁鞓烏犀帶。武官，一品、二品佩帶同，三品、四品金帶，五品、六品、七品紅鞓烏犀帶，皆不佩魚，八品以下並皁鞓烏犀帶。司天、太醫、內侍、教坊，服皆同文武官，惟不佩魚。應殿庭承應五品以下官，非入內不許金帶，又展紫入殿庭者，並許服紅鞓，不佩魚。又二品以上官，許兼服通犀帶，三品官若治事及見賓客，許兼服花犀帶。大定二年制，百官趨朝、赴省，並須裹帶。五品以上官，趨朝則朝服，赴省則展皁，雨雪沾衣則從便。凡朝參，主寶、主符展紫，御仙花或太平花金束帶。近侍給使、供御筆硯、直長、符寶吏紫襖子，塗金束帶。輪直，則近侍給使並常服，常服則展紫。閣門六尚，遇朝參侍立則服本品服，若宮中當直則服窄紫、金帶。學士院官、修起居注、補闕、拾遺、祕書丞、祕書郎，朝參侍立則服本品服、色帶。當直則窄紫、金帶。東宮左右衛率、僕正、副僕正、典儀、贊儀、內直郎丞，當直亦許服之。太子太師出入宮中則展紫，至東宮則展皁，三少則展紫。
輿服下
衣服通制
君子之服，以稱德也，故德之備者其文備。古者王公及士庶人莫不各有一定之制，而不敢相逾者，蓋風俗之奢儉，法令之齊一，必於是而觀焉。《詩》曰：“彼都人士，狐裘黃黃。其容不改，出言有章。”其三章曰：“彼都人士，充耳琇實。彼君子女，謂之尹吉。”此言都邑之盛，人物之懿也。明昌間，章宗謂宰臣曰：“今風俗侈靡，莫若律以制度，使貴賤有等。其令禮部具典故以聞。”他日又謂參知政事張萬公曰：“山東風俗如何？”萬公對以奢，左丞守貞因言衣服之制，上曰：“如卿所言，正恐失人心耳。”守貞曰：“止是商賈有不悅者。”萬公曰：“乞寬與之期，三年之內當如制矣。”於是，上以禮部所擬太繁，以尚書省所擬而行之。嗟乎！人君以風俗爲言，其亦知所務矣。
金人之常服四：帶，巾，盤領衣，烏皮靴。其束帶曰吐鶻。巾之制，以皁羅若紗爲之，上結方頂，折垂於後。頂之下際兩角各綴方羅徑二寸許，方羅之下各附帶長六七寸。當橫額之上，或爲一縮襞積。貴顯者於方頂，循十字縫飾以珠，其中必貫以大者，謂之頂珠。帶旁各絡珠結綬，長半帶，垂之，海陵賜大興國者是也。其衣色多白，三品以皁，窄袖，盤領，縫腋，下爲襞積，而不缺袴。其胸臆肩袖，或飾以金繡，其從春水之服則多鶻捕鵝，雜花卉之飾，其從秋山之服則以熊鹿山林爲文，其長中〈骨幹〉，取便於騎也。吐鶻，玉爲上，金次之，犀象骨角又次之。銙鞓，小者間置於前，大者施於後，左右有變雙釒宅尾，納方束中，其刻琢多如春水秋山之飾。左佩牌，右佩刀。刀貴鑌，柄尚雞舌木，黃黑相半，有黑雙距者爲上，或三事五事。室飾以醬瓣樺，釒剽口飾以鮫，或屑金鍮和漆，塗鮫隙而礲平之。醬瓣樺者，謂樺皮班文色殷紫如醬中豆瓣也，產其國，故尚之。
初，女直人不得改爲漢姓及學南人裝束，違者杖八十，編爲永制。
婦人服襜裙，多以黑紫，上編繡全枝花，周身六襞積。上衣謂之團衫，用黑紫或皁及紺，直領，左衽，掖縫，兩傍復爲雙襞積，前拂地，後曳地尺餘。帶色用紅黃，前變垂至下齊。年老者以皁紗籠髻如巾狀，散綴玉鈿於上，謂之玉逍遙。此皆遼服也，金亦襲之。許嫁之女則服綽子，制如婦人服，以紅或銀褐明金爲之，對襟彩領，前齊拂地，後曳五寸餘。
明昌六年制，文武官六貫石以上承應人並及蔭者，許用牙領，紫圓板皁條羅帶，皁靴，上得兼下。系籍儒生止服白衫領，系揹帶並以紫圓絛羅帶，乾皁靴。餘人用純紫領，不得用緣，雜色圓板絛羅帶不得用紫，靴用黃及黑油皁蠟等，婦人各從便。泰和四年，以親王品官既分領緣，而復有皁靴之禁，似涉太煩，遂聽親王用銀褐領紫緣，品官皆紫領白緣，餘從明昌制。
書袋之制。大定十六年，世宗以吏員與士民之服無別，潛入民間受賕轀獄，有司不能檢察，遂定懸書袋之制。省、樞密院令、譯史用紫襜絲爲之，臺、六部、宗正、統軍司、檢察司以黑斜皮爲之，寺、監、隨朝諸局、幷州縣，並黃皮爲之，各長七寸，闊二寸、厚半寸，並於束帶上懸帶，公退則懸於便服，違者所司糾之。
大定十三年，太常寺擬士人及僧尼道女冠有師號、並良閒官八品以上，許服花紗綾羅絲綢。在官承應有出身人、帶八品以下官，未帶官亦同，許服花紗綾羅襜絲絲綢，家屬同，婦人許用珠爲首飾。其都孔目與八品良閒官同，京府州縣司吏皆與庶人同。庶人止許服霢綢、絹布、毛褐、花紗、無紋素羅、絲綿，其頭巾、繫腰、領帕許用芝麻羅、絛用絨織成者，不得以金玉犀象諸寶瑪瑙玻璃之類爲器皿、及裝飾刀把鞘、並銀裝釘牀榻之類。婦人首飾，不許用珠翠鈿子等物，翠毛除許裝飾花環冠子，餘外並禁。兵卒許服無紋壓羅、霢綢、絹布、毛褐。奴婢止許服霢綢、絹布、毛褐。倡優遇迎接、公筵承應，許暫服繪畫之服，其私服與庶人同。
《金史》•卷四十三·志第二十四·輿服上
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The standard clothing of the Jin people consists of: sash, head covering, round-collar robe, and black leather boots. The sash is called "Tughe." The head covering is made of black silk or gauze, with a square top, folded and hanging down at the back. At the two corners below the top, small square cloths (each about two inches in size) are attached, each with a long strap (six to seven inches). Across the top of the head covering, there may be a fold or pleat. For those of high status, the square top is adorned with pearls arranged in a cross pattern, with one large pearl centered in the middle, known as the "top pearl." Pearl-embellished cords are attached to each side of the sash, hanging down halfway along the sash. This was given to Da Xingguo by Helin. The color of the robes is mostly white; for those of third rank, black is used. The sleeves are narrow, the collar is round, and the armpits are sewn closed. The lower part is formed into pleats and the trousers are not cut. The chest, shoulders, and sleeves may be decorated with gold embroidery. For spring-water-themed robes, it often features designs of eagles capturing geese and mixed floral patterns; for autumn-hill-themed robes, bears and deer in mountainous landscapes are featured. The long robes are designed for ease in riding. The Tughe sash is made of jade for the highest rank, gold for the next, and rhino or elephant bone or horn for the lower ranks. The sash straps are small and placed in front, or large and placed behind. On each side, there are double tail ends, placed within a frame, carved with spring-water or autumn-hill motifs. On the left side is a plaque, and on the right is a knife. The knife should be made of a superior steel alloy (like milled steel), with a handle made of chicken-thorn wood, half black and half yellow. Knives with two black tips are considered high quality, with some having three or five tips. The interior decoration uses a type of purple-stained birch bark (resembling sauce bean patterns), and the knife handles are decorated with sea creatures or powdered gold mixed with lacquer, smoothed and polished. This type of birch bark has a deep purple, bean-like pattern, originating from within the country, hence its popularity.
Initially, the Jurchens were forbidden from changing their surname into Han and adopting the Han-style attire. Violators would be punished by eighty lashes and registered as commoners under permanent rules.
Women wore a wrap-around skirt, predominantly black or purple, with embroidered full-flower designs, and six pleats on their bodies. The upper garment is known as a "tuanshan," made of black, purple, or black-dyed indigo, with a straight collar, left-side closure, and a double pleat on each side. The front reaches the ground, with the back extending one foot beyond. The sash color is red or yellow, with the front part hanging down to the lower edge. Older women wore a black silk cap shaped like a headwrap, with jade decorations scattered on top, called "Yu Xiaoyao." These are styles from the Liao dynasty and were adopted by the Jin. When girls were about to marry, they wore a "chuizi" garment, resembling the dress of women, made of red or silver-brown with gold trim. It features a double front opening, a colorful collar, and the front reaches the ground with the back extending five inches beyond.
In the sixth year of Mingchang, all civil and military officials with a household assessment of six thousand stones or more, and those inheriting office, were allowed to wear a toothed collar, a purple circular and black ribbed silk sash, black boots, and could wear upper and lower ranks simultaneously. Students and scholars were only allowed to wear white shirts with a collar and a purple circular and black ribbed sash, black boots. Others wore plain purple collars, without borders, and were prohibited from using colored circular ribbed sashes. Boots were to be yellow or black oil leather, and women could wear as they pleased. In the fourth year of Tahe, as the nobility and officials were already permitted to have borders on their garments and black boots were already banned, it seemed unnecessarily restrictive. Thus, princes could wear silver-brown collars with purple borders, and officials of all grades wore purple collars with white borders; all other regulations followed those of the Mingchang era.
The regulation for book bags was established in the sixteenth year of Dading. King Shizong found that clerks and commoners' attire were too similar, and they infiltrated the common people, accepting bribes and causing corruption that the officials could not control. He therefore decreed a regulation requiring book bags to be worn. Provincial officials, the Bureau of Military Affairs, and translators were required to wear purple silk book bags. The examination bureaus, the six ministries, the Bureau of Clan Affairs, the Military Governor's Office, and the Inspection Office used black skewered leather book bags. Various offices, prefectures, and county officials used yellow leather ones. All book bags were seven inches in length, two inches in width, and half an inch thick, hung on the sash. When returning to private life, they were hung on their simple clothing. Violators would be reported by the appropriate authorities.
In the thirteenth year of Dading, the Office of Rites proposed that scholars, monks, nuns, female monks, those with teacher titles, and qualified civil servants of the eighth rank or above could wear silk, silk fabric, gauze, and other fine textiles. Civil officials serving in the office who had official status, or those with official positions below the eighth rank, even without holding official office, were allowed to wear silk, silk fabric, gauze, and cotton, and their families could wear the same. Women were allowed to use pearls as jewelry. The head officials of local offices and eighth-ranked civil servants were treated the same. Officials at prefectural, county, and city offices were considered equal to commoners. Commoners were only allowed to wear plain cotton, linen, coarse woolen fabrics, floral gauze, plain unpatterned silk, and cotton. Headwear, sashes, and collar scarves were permitted to be made of sesame silk or woven with wool, but they were not allowed to use precious materials such as gold, jade, rhino horns, elephant tusks, gemstones, glass, or decorative objects on knives, sheathes, or silver-plated furniture or beds. Women's jewelry was forbidden from using pearls, jade, or decorative ornaments; jade feathers were only permitted in floral headdresses or crowns, and no other use was allowed. Soldiers were allowed to wear plain pressed silk, plain cotton, linen, and coarse wool. Slaves and servants were only allowed to wear plain cotton, linen, and coarse wool. Performers and entertainers were permitted to wear decorated clothing during official receptions and public banquets, but their private attire remained the same as commoners.
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The standard clothing of the Jin people consists of: sash, head covering, round-collar robe, and black leather boots. The sash is called "Tughe." The head covering is made of black silk or gauze, with a square top, folded and hanging down at the back. At the two corners below the top, small square cloths (each about two inches in size) are attached, each with a long strap (six to seven inches). Across the top of the head covering, there may be a fold or pleat. For those of high status, the square top is adorned with pearls arranged in a cross pattern, with one large pearl centered in the middle, known as the "top pearl." Pearl-embellished cords are attached to each side of the sash, hanging down halfway along the sash. This was given to Da Xingguo by Helin. The color of the robes is mostly white; for those of third rank, black is used. The sleeves are narrow, the collar is round, and the armpits are sewn closed. The lower part is formed into pleats and the trousers are not cut. The chest, shoulders, and sleeves may be decorated with gold embroidery. For spring-water-themed robes, it often features designs of eagles capturing geese and mixed floral patterns; for autumn-hill-themed robes, bears and deer in mountainous landscapes are featured. The long robes are designed for ease in riding. The Tughe sash is made of jade for the highest rank, gold for the next, and rhino or elephant bone or horn for the lower ranks. The sash straps are small and placed in front, or large and placed behind. On each side, there are double tail ends, placed within a frame, carved with spring-water or autumn-hill motifs. On the left side is a plaque, and on the right is a knife. The knife should be made of a superior steel alloy (like milled steel), with a handle made of chicken-thorn wood, half black and half yellow. Knives with two black tips are considered high quality, with some having three or five tips. The interior decoration uses a type of purple-stained birch bark (resembling sauce bean patterns), and the knife handles are decorated with sea creatures or powdered gold mixed with lacquer, smoothed and polished. This type of birch bark has a deep purple, bean-like pattern, originating from within the country, hence its popularity.
Initially, the Jurchens were forbidden from changing their surname into Han and adopting the Han-style attire. Violators would be punished by eighty lashes and registered as commoners under permanent rules.
Women wore a wrap-around skirt, predominantly black or purple, with embroidered full-flower designs, and six pleats on their bodies. The upper garment is known as a "tuanshan," made of black, purple, or black-dyed indigo, with a straight collar, left-side closure, and a double pleat on each side. The front reaches the ground, with the back extending one foot beyond. The sash color is red or yellow, with the front part hanging down to the lower edge. Older women wore a black silk cap shaped like a headwrap, with jade decorations scattered on top, called "Yu Xiaoyao." These are styles from the Liao dynasty and were adopted by the Jin. When girls were about to marry, they wore a "chuizi" garment, resembling the dress of women, made of red or silver-brown with gold trim. It features a double front opening, a colorful collar, and the front reaches the ground with the back extending five inches beyond.
In the sixth year of Mingchang, all civil and military officials with a household assessment of six thousand stones or more, and those inheriting office, were allowed to wear a toothed collar, a purple circular and black ribbed silk sash, black boots, and could wear upper and lower ranks simultaneously. Students and scholars were only allowed to wear white shirts with a collar and a purple circular and black ribbed sash, black boots. Others wore plain purple collars, without borders, and were prohibited from using colored circular ribbed sashes. Boots were to be yellow or black oil leather, and women could wear as they pleased. In the fourth year of Tahe, as the nobility and officials were already permitted to have borders on their garments and black boots were already banned, it seemed unnecessarily restrictive. Thus, princes could wear silver-brown collars with purple borders, and officials of all grades wore purple collars with white borders; all other regulations followed those of the Mingchang era.
The regulation for book bags was established in the sixteenth year of Dading. King Shizong found that clerks and commoners' attire were too similar, and they infiltrated the common people, accepting bribes and causing corruption that the officials could not control. He therefore decreed a regulation requiring book bags to be worn. Provincial officials, the Bureau of Military Affairs, and translators were required to wear purple silk book bags. The examination bureaus, the six ministries, the Bureau of Clan Affairs, the Military Governor's Office, and the Inspection Office used black skewered leather book bags. Various offices, prefectures, and county officials used yellow leather ones. All book bags were seven inches in length, two inches in width, and half an inch thick, hung on the sash. When returning to private life, they were hung on their simple clothing. Violators would be reported by the appropriate authorities.
In the thirteenth year of Dading, the Office of Rites proposed that scholars, monks, nuns, female monks, those with teacher titles, and qualified civil servants of the eighth rank or above could wear silk, silk fabric, gauze, and other fine textiles. Civil officials serving in the office who had official status, or those with official positions below the eighth rank, even without holding official office, were allowed to wear silk, silk fabric, gauze, and cotton, and their families could wear the same. Women were allowed to use pearls as jewelry. The head officials of local offices and eighth-ranked civil servants were treated the same. Officials at prefectural, county, and city offices were considered equal to commoners. Commoners were only allowed to wear plain cotton, linen, coarse woolen fabrics, floral gauze, plain unpatterned silk, and cotton. Headwear, sashes, and collar scarves were permitted to be made of sesame silk or woven with wool, but they were not allowed to use precious materials such as gold, jade, rhino horns, elephant tusks, gemstones, glass, or decorative objects on knives, sheathes, or silver-plated furniture or beds. Women's jewelry was forbidden from using pearls, jade, or decorative ornaments; jade feathers were only permitted in floral headdresses or crowns, and no other use was allowed. Soldiers were allowed to wear plain pressed silk, plain cotton, linen, and coarse wool. Slaves and servants were only allowed to wear plain cotton, linen, and coarse wool. Performers and entertainers were permitted to wear decorated clothing during official receptions and public banquets, but their private attire remained the same as commoners.
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納蘭青雲
